MILAN — It took longer than anticipated for Ferragamo and Interparfums Inc. to launch the primary pillar perfume underneath their licensing deal, inked again in 2021.
Named “Fiamma,” the model’s new girls’s scent that’s to be celebrated with a two-day occasion in Florence beginning Wednesday earlier than formally hitting the cabinets beginning April 1, additionally marks the model’s first perfume underneath artistic director Maximilian Davis.
“Usually Interparfums is ready to launch a brand new fragrance from scratch in 18 months. This time it took us virtually three years as a result of with this new blockbuster we wanted to ship out three messages: a brand new perfume, a brand new time additionally for Ferragamo and a brand new brand,” mentioned Jean Madar, chairman, cofounder and chief govt officer of Interparfums Inc.
“It’s not simply the launch of a brand new pillar but additionally an announcement we’re making to the market. It’s a change of time. Ferragamo was a traditional model, we wish to enter into quiet luxurious, which doesn’t imply shy nevertheless it means critical luxurious [done] in a refined means,” mentioned the chief.
Madar underscored the work finished not solely with Davis however with the Ferragamo household in conceiving the product, finest expressed by the selection of the title itself. The title performs on the Italian phrase for “flame” but additionally nods to the late Fiamma Ferragamo, the eldest of founder Salvatore’s six youngsters. Identified for her understated class and appreciable attraction, she was a driving pressure behind the expansion of the household enterprise as she served as the home’s equipment and shoe designer for nearly 40 years.
Davis’ contribution got here even earlier than the events christened the scent, because the artistic director was concerned in designing the glass flacon.
“Simply the bottle took us a couple of 12 months to make,” mentioned Madar. “We wished a traditional form, however Maximilian wished a extra natural bottle. It’s not a spherical, not a sq.. It’s not flat, it has some waves, it’s a bit of concave and convex on the similar time. It’s very refined. While you see it, it appears easy.
“And we determined to [outline it] with a gold metalization, which was very sophisticated to do as a result of it’s solely partially metalized,” he continued. “It’s all about these little particulars that add on and make the challenge probably the most formidable technically that Interparfums has ever finished,” mentioned Madar, highlighting the high-shine gold particulars and cutout cap engraved with the letter F on the highest.
Davis mentioned the perfume “is the expression of design impressed by the heritage and class of the home,” pointing to the bottle’s form and texture as parts “symbolizing the motion of sensuality and freedom.”
Ferragamo’s new Fiamma perfume.
Mario Sorrenti/Courtesy of Ferragamo
As for the juice, it was created in collaboration with Firmenich and its senior perfumer Clement Gavarry, who concocted a woody and floral perfume mixing high notes of white pear with a inexperienced coronary heart of gardenia flowers and ending it off with amber and spicy accents on the backside.
Madar mentioned the objective was to have “an easy-to-wear perfume,” to not lose the prevailing buyer base of Ferragamo’s scent. Nonetheless, the chief mentioned it was vital to have a signature perfume, with a powerful hyperlink to Florence — right here expressed by the gardenia flower — that might resonate with a goal client of “energy girls” aged 20 to 35.
The hyperlink with the corporate’s hometown will likely be additional boosted by the promoting marketing campaign and business set towards the hills of Florence. Photographed by Mario Sorrenti, mannequin Karolina Spakowski wrapped in a flaming purple robe embodies the contemporary, assured muse of the scent.
Tasked with reflecting additionally Ferragamo’s dedication to environmental duty, perfumer Gavarry used greater than 80 % biodegradable substances within the perfume, which is designed to be absolutely refillable in its 100-ml. measurement.
“Sustainability is essential to Ferragamo,” mentioned James Ferragamo, chief product officer of the Florentine vogue home. “This method delineates the willingness to innovate our merchandise: embed sustainability ideas within the manufacturing of fragrances by growing the uptake of pure and biodegradable substances, and a curated packaging, utilizing supplies resembling recycled glass and responsibly sourced paper.”
The product will likely be out there within the 35-ml., 55-ml. and 100-ml. codecs, which can retail at 65 euros, 95 euros and 130 euros, respectively. The refill will value 90 euros.
Ferragamo’s new Fiamma perfume.
Courtesy of Ferragamo
The scent will launch in Italy and the U.S. on the similar time. Along with Ferragamo’s shops — lots of which can dedicate home windows to the perfume — Fiamma will launch within the home market on the Rinascente division retailer first, earlier than getting into 200 doorways of perfumery chain Douglas, whereas within the U.S. will probably be out there on the likes of Nordstrom, Bloomingdale’s and Macy’s. Concurrently, it’s going to roll out in Mexico, earlier than a giant launch in Asia at shops in China and Hong Kong.
Madar mentioned the plan is to have a distribution of round 2,000 doorways worldwide and forecast the scent will characterize 20 % of Ferragamo perfume’s whole gross sales and generate round 30 million euros in retail gross sales this 12 months, pushed by sturdy performances within the U.S., Mexico and Italy.
“The perfume technique is totally inserted within the international group one. Particularly, the perfume enterprise is targeted on attracting new prospects and attain completely different audiences,” mentioned Ferragamo, mentioning geographic targets resembling Europe, Center East and Africa, Americas and China.
The funding in media to advertise the scent is budgeted to be 40 % of whole gross sales, mentioned Madar. He added that the model’s perfume enterprise generated round $75 million in internet gross sales final 12 months and that since Interparfums took the enterprise, this has grown 20 %. Key markets for the model’s fragrances are the Americas, Asia and Italy, accounting for 35 %, 30 % and 10 % of the enterprise, respectively.
Current profitable pillars, which Interparfums determined to not discontinue, have been the primary drivers to date. These embody the Signorina blockbuster franchise launched twenty years in the past and that also accounts for 35 % of whole gross sales, whereas the lads’s scents account for 20 % of whole gross sales.
“The prevailing enterprise is essential as a result of we’ve a longtime buyer and we don’t wish to discontinue the opposite fragrances,” mentioned Madar. “Even when it’s an issue for us, we want to fabricate smaller portions and hold our loyal prospects, who’ve been utilizing these fragrances for years and have been our ambassadors,” mentioned the chief, including that what Interparfums did at first of the partnership was cleansing up the distribution, as an alternative.
The advert marketing campaign for Ferragamo’s new Fiamma perfume.
Mario Sorrenti/Courtesy of Ferragamo
As reported, the licensing settlement between Ferragamo and Interparfums was signed in 2021. The deal marked a turning level for Ferragamo’s magnificence enterprise as its perfume division had been managed in-house for twenty years.
“A licensing relationship is completely different from creating a perfume in-house. We discovered a accomplice which is attentive and collaborative, and we work collectively step-by-step, respecting one another’s imaginative and prescient,” mentioned Ferragamo.
Madar recalled how the Ferragamo household’s calls for earlier than inking the deal included having folks primarily based in Italy managing the challenge. Quick-forward 4 years, Interparfums can rely on a workforce of 70 folks domestically and a hub in central Milan. This outpost got here in useful in securing additionally the Roberto Cavalli license in 2023, and would possibly enable for additional growth within the portfolio.
“This isn’t the top, only the start, as we expect this staff can handle much more. So sure, we’ve plans for extra manufacturers and extra Italian manufacturers [to have in our portfolio],” mentioned Madar.
In the meantime, the corporate is readying the launch of its personal label this summer time. Named Solférino in a nod to the road the place its Parisian headquarters is predicated, this will likely be Interparfums’ first line developed not underneath license and can launch with 12 premium fragrances positioned within the high-end area of interest class, a scorching phase “the place at the moment we don’t take part.”
Based by Madar and Philippe Benacin in 1982, Interparfums Inc. generated internet gross sales of $1.45 billion final 12 months. The corporate develops, manufactures and distributes status perfumes and fragrance-related merchandise for a wide selection of manufacturers and manages its enterprise in two working segments, flanking its U.S.-based operations with European-based ones by way of its 72 % owned subsidiary Interparfums SA.
The previous’s portfolio contains the likes of Abercrombie & Fitch, Anna Sui, Donna Karan, DKNY, Graff, Guess, Hollister, MCM, Oscar de la Renta, Roberto Cavalli and Ungaro, along with Ferragamo.
Listed on Euronext Paris with a market capitalization of virtually 3 billion euros, in 2024 Interparfums SA represented round 65 % of whole internet gross sales, producing 880.5 million euros. Interparfums SA’s perfume licenses embody Boucheron, Coach, Jimmy Choo, Karl Lagerfeld, Kate Spade, Lacoste, Moncler, Montblanc and Van Cleef & Arpels. The corporate, which additionally owns Lanvin fragrances and the Rochas model, has lately inked a perfume license with Off-White as nicely, which is efficient on Jan. 1, 2026.
