For over six centuries, the Antinori household has formed the course of Italian winemaking, establishing a legacy constructed on custom, pioneering imaginative and prescient and an unwavering pursuit of excellence. However Marchese Lodovico Antinori has by no means been one to relaxation on heritage alone. From founding Ornellaia and Masseto — two of Italy’s most celebrated wines — to his newest enterprise, Lodovico Wine, he has constantly pushed boundaries, redefining what Tuscan winemaking may be.
On this unique interview, Mr Lodovico Antinori displays on his journey — from reworking the worldwide notion of Italian wine to embracing sustainability and the evolving tastes of a brand new era. With an unshakable dedication to high quality and rarity, he continues to form the way forward for superb wine, proving that the posh wine trade isn’t just about identify or historical past alone — it’s about imaginative and prescient.
The Antinori household identify is synonymous with centuries of winemaking excellence. How does Lodovico Wine each honour this heritage and carve its personal id?
I began working with the household enterprise in America when Italian wine had a really distant presence there. This was within the late ’60s, a time when the notion of Italian wine was fairly low. Many wines nonetheless got here in straw-wrapped bottles, and the trade was dominated by French wines for reds and German Rieslings for whites. Italian wines have been seen as second-tier.
That have formed my imaginative and prescient. I realised that Italian winemaking had the potential to evolve past custom and stand on equal footing with the world’s finest wines. Fifteen years later, I stepped away from my household enterprise to create one thing small however of remarkable high quality — one thing that really mirrored my philosophy.
I launched my first impartial challenge within the Eighties, aiming to raise the requirements of Italian wine. On the time, many Italian producers have been complacent, sticking to the established order. My objective was to wake them up, to point out that we had the land, the local weather, and the potential to do higher. I wasn’t simply one other Antinori — folks knew my household identify, however additionally they noticed that I had constructed one thing alone. That impressed many small producers to lift their requirements. Immediately, the standard of Italian wine has improved considerably, and I take delight in having contributed to that shift.
Lodovico Antinori and his daughter Sophia – 2022
What was the inspiration behind founding Lodovico Wine, and the way does it differ out of your earlier ventures within the wine trade?
The thought for the wine got here from a winery that was uniquely uncovered to the north. Historically, vineyards are planted dealing with southwest to maximise solar publicity. However with the rising temperatures and local weather change, I believed — why not do the other? So I planted the winery dealing with north, the place it will obtain much less direct daylight.
At first, I wished to call it “Vigna Nord,” which implies ‘North Winery.’ However my German agent—one in all my strongest supporters — insisted in opposition to it. “That may be a catastrophe,” he informed me outright. He left my workplace abruptly, and later, I referred to as him to ask why. His response: “You’re getting previous—you left the reply proper in entrance of you”. I used to be taken without warning as a result of I had by no means deliberate to place my very own identify on the wine. I used to be hesitant and shy about it at first. However then he gave me an ultimatum — he even wrote me a clean cheque and stated, “In case you identify it Lodovico, you possibly can fill within the quantity and money it. However when you insist on calling it Vigna Nord, I gained’t provide you with a single cent”.
If you’re beginning a challenge, funding is crucial, so in the long run, I gave in. That’s how the wine got here to bear my identify. In fact, with a private identify comes an incredible sense of accountability — particularly within the American market, the place placing your identify on one thing means a dedication to high quality. It implies a deep stage of care and involvement. Individuals assume I examine each barrel myself, which, to be sincere, I don’t. However I do take the accountability significantly.
What units Lodovico aside out of your earlier tasks?
The largest distinction is that Lodovico is centred round Cabernet Franc. Earlier than this, with Biserno —which you’ll be accustomed to — we labored with a Bordeaux mix, incorporating all of the traditional varieties, together with Petit Verdot. However this challenge focuses totally on Cabernet Franc.
That stated, the wine we’re ingesting right now additionally incorporates a little bit of Merlot. That’s as a result of our winemaker, Michel Rolland, has a robust choice for Merlot — he simply can’t resist including some to the mix. He’s not as eager on Cabernet Franc as I’m, so we’ve had a number of debates concerning the percentages. Over time, although, he’s began listening to me extra, and from the 2020 classic onward, we’re lowering the quantity of Merlot.
Earlier than that, from our first classic in 2007 by to 2019, we used the next proportion of Merlot — typically 10 to 12 p.c, typically 5 p.c, relying on the yr. However shifting ahead, we’re focusing much more on Cabernet Franc to provide the wine a particular character.
Sustainability is a key subject in luxurious winemaking right now. How does Lodovico Wine combine sustainable practices with out compromising on high quality?
We’re not totally biodynamic or natural, however we’re following a set of protocols that may enable a few of our vineyards to transition to natural practices within the subsequent 5 years. That stated, it’s not my main focus for the time being. Sustainability is essential, however my principal precedence is at all times high quality. It units an instance within the area. However after all, sustainability comes at the next price. A sustainability-focused method is dearer than conventional strategies. For instance, in standard winemaking, you possibly can merely spray chemical compounds to take away weeds, however that’s not good for the soil or the roots.
We’ve taken a extra ecological method. As an alternative of actively eradicating weeds, we allow them to die off naturally. This implies we don’t have to plough as typically or disturb the land unnecessarily. We purpose for sustainability, or as we are saying in Italian, ecosostenibilità, however with out essentially adhering to strict natural certification, which requires particular therapies which might be pricey and don’t essentially enhance the wine.
For pest management, we now not use pesticides. As an alternative, we use a German-developed resolution that stops bugs from reproducing. It doesn’t kill them — it merely disrupts their reproductive cycle. This fashion, the inhabitants progressively declines with out introducing poisonous chemical compounds into the winery.
In fact, all of those add to the price of manufacturing. Sustainable practices are dearer than the usual viticulture strategies used throughout Italy, which depend on cheaper, standard therapies. Labour can be a major issue. Whereas many wineries use machines or quick-fix chemical therapies, we require expert staff to are inclined to the vines manually, guaranteeing each step is finished with precision. This stage of element and care is what makes our wines costly — but additionally what makes them distinctive.
The posh wine market is turning into more and more aggressive. What do you imagine units Lodovico aside as a collector’s wine?
Amount performs an important function. For instance, Lodovico is proscribed to solely 10,000 bottles per yr. And that quantity won’t ever improve — it’s written right into a contract, even after I’m gone.
There’s at all times the temptation, when a wine is profitable, to supply extra. However I imagine that may be a mistake. Collectors and connoisseurs aren’t silly—they’ve refined palates, and so they can instantly detect even the slightest change in high quality. That’s why we stay dedicated to this strict manufacturing restrict. Rarity is a key consider luxurious, and sustaining exclusivity ensures that our wine stays really particular.
One other defining factor is the function of Cabernet Franc in our wine. The potential for getting older is extraordinary. On this planet of luxurious, longevity is a vital assertion. An important wine mustn’t solely be drinkable when younger however must also enhance considerably over time.
For instance, we not too long ago opened a bottle of Lodovico from 2007 — one of many earliest vintages, when the vineyards have been nonetheless younger. Solely 3,000 bottles have been produced that yr, but it has aged fantastically. The wine has developed, gaining depth and complexity with none indicators of decline. That’s what defines a very nice wine: the flexibility to mature gracefully over many years whereas remaining a pleasure to drink at any stage.
How is Lodovico partaking with the brand new, youthful era of wine drinkers, and what methods are you implementing to attraction to their evolving tastes and preferences?
They need one thing totally different. A lot of them come from rich households, in order that they’ve grown up surrounded by superb wines. However they need to distinguish themselves, to drink wines that aren’t the identical as what their dad and mom choose.
For the time being, my wines attraction extra to an older viewers. However I do have a challenge within the works for youthful drinkers — a wine referred to as Villa del Nik, which shall be from the 2012 classic. This can be a challenge I’m engaged on with my daughter, who’s 25. She shall be extra in tune with the preferences of the youthful era. I imagine they (youthful shoppers) choose wines with decrease alcohol content material, wines which might be a bit lighter, much less opulent, and extra restrained. The development is shifting away from the daring, extremely concentrated wines that have been as soon as designed to impress the American market.
Previously, American shoppers have been used to ingesting whiskey, milk, or virtually nothing else. Once they have been first launched to wine, they discovered the style too tannic, too harsh. That’s when Robert Parker — a really well-known American wine journalist — had a serious affect. He satisfied European winemakers, together with the French, to melt their wines. We tailored, making wines with rounder, smoother tannins, and harvesting later to attain riper fruit flavours. That fashion dominated for a very long time.
That leads me to my subsequent query. There’s a rising development of alcohol-free wines, notably within the U.S., pushed by a brand new, health-conscious motion on social media. What are your ideas on alcohol-free wine, and do you suppose it impacts superb wine?
No, superb wine won’t be affected by that in any respect.
In America, they name this sort of factor a “fad”. Identical to orange wine turned a development, alcohol-free wine is one thing that’s gaining recognition with sure teams, notably youthful, health-conscious shoppers. Nevertheless it gained’t have any actual affect on the superb wine world.
With a rising curiosity in wine as a type of funding, do you contemplate Lodovico a wine meant for collectors, traders, or purely for the pleasure of ingesting?
We produce wine for pleasure — we would like folks to drink and revel in it. That’s the core function.
However in actuality, there are collectors who purchase wine as an funding. Some drink it, however others retailer it and promote it later when the value rises. The English are particularly recognized for this — they typically purchase 5 instances of wine early, promote two instances after a number of years when the worth will increase, and primarily benefit from the remaining wine at no cost. This was quite common within the Bordeaux market when costs have been booming. Traders would purchase wine early, maintain onto it for 5 years, after which promote at a revenue. Nonetheless, the Bordeaux market has declined not too long ago, so this sort of hypothesis isn’t as profitable proper now.
Do you suppose your wines are fitted to funding in the identical manner?
To not the identical extent. Our wines should not but established sufficient available in the market for that sort of hypothesis.
The primary classic I ever made was offered at public sale as soon as — only one time. That was again in 2001. Then I ended providing it at auctions for some time. However from the 2021 classic, I’d begin once more.
Just lately, some vineyards in France struggled to make sufficient revenue from wine gross sales alone, in order that they launched tourism experiences — winery stays, guided excursions, and even Airbnb-like lodging on their estates. Do you see this turning into a development in Italy as effectively?
Sure, this idea already exists in Italy. There’s even a authorized framework for it. If a winery turns into a part of this program, they obtain tax advantages and different benefits, however they have to adjust to strict laws. For instance, they will’t purchase meals from commonplace distributors; they have to supply from accepted native suppliers. Ideally, they need to develop their very own greens, fruits, and eggs on-site. It’s an attractive concept, however typically it’s tough in observe. If company arrive when sure elements aren’t in season, the winery should nonetheless discover a manner to supply them whereas staying inside the laws.
Nonetheless, this mannequin is extraordinarily standard, particularly in Tuscany, which has turn out to be an iconic luxurious vacation spot. Tuscany attracts guests with robust monetary potential, so even small vineyards can profit. If a pair with a baby desires an opulent but genuine expertise, they will now discover precisely that.
How do you see the function of residing areas, such because the one you’ve created, the place the proprietor interacts with the company?
They occupy one ground, pay an affordable quantity and dwell along with the proprietor, making a sort of interactive, communal way of life. This has been particularly profitable with youthful folks. I believe what they’re doing with that is excellent. We did one thing comparable at the start, however the usual was so excessive, it ended up costing some huge cash. Now, I hope my nephew is taking good care of it. He’s very tight with funds and desires the stability sheet to be beneficial. He doesn’t perceive how essential it’s to entertain folks. Even when it’s costly, it’s the one type of promoting we do. In fact, it’s not worthwhile for us as a result of we do it at a excessive commonplace, which implies we want extra personnel, and that’s costly. So, it price an excessive amount of. My nephew is now specializing in making it an attractive spot as a result of folks come and go to.
How do you see the function of restricted editions and exclusivity evolving within the superb wine trade?
We at all times produce small batches — about 10,000 bottles, which may be very small compared to different American wineries, which produce a number of thousand instances of 12 bottles every. In American phrases, that’s a couple of thousand instances, every case containing 12 bottles. So it’s actually a small operation, not like Romanée-Conti, however nonetheless very small in dimension. We haven’t promoted it a lot — phrase of mouth is the way it spreads. Some folks prefer it, and so they discuss to their pals. However we haven’t accomplished an enormous promotion concerning the rarity. We at all times promote out of the instances, although. We haven’t wanted to overpromote as a result of the rarity itself attracts consumers. Our instances are costly, however due to the restricted amount, we at all times discover prospects.
How do you see the function of expertise — be it in viticulture, manufacturing, or distribution — shaping the way forward for Lodovico Wine and the wine trade?
The technological facet we use may be very fashionable, however we even have a philosophy of minimal intervention. The objective is to the touch the grapes as little as attainable to keep away from stunning them. We’ve discovered that noise can disturb the grapes, so we attempt to reduce it. The French have an identical philosophy with their winemaking, the place they emphasise not disturbing the wine an excessive amount of. It’s a bit romantic, nevertheless it’s additionally about respecting the character of the product. We imagine that the much less you disturb the grapes, the higher the ultimate wine shall be.
What does the following decade have in retailer for Lodovico and the world of winemaking?
Within the subsequent 10 years, the vineyards will proceed to age, and that may tremendously enhance the standard of the wine. Older vineyards produce higher wine, and ours are solely about 14 or 15 years previous, in order that they nonetheless have time to mature. We additionally plan to increase into the American market, which we haven’t been in a position to do as a result of we’ve by no means had sufficient wine to provide it. By way of strategic progress, we’ll concentrate on making our wine accessible to collectors in America, which has been a long-term objective.
With regard to worldwide growth, proper now, we’re robust in Europe, particularly Jap Europe. We’ve made nice strides there. Singapore can be turning into an essential market, nonetheless at current, our gross sales are decrease, however we’re assured that we will enhance that quantity to round 300 bottles. Our objective is to promote roughly 600 bottles there. We even have connections in Hong Kong and Shanghai, the place we’ve had some success. Nonetheless, the rich Chinese language market is at present extra focused on Burgundy wines, notably Pinot Noir. Consequently, we’re seeing a shift available in the market preferences, and we’re adapting to that development.
Lastly, in your personal phrases, describe what makes a “good” wine.
An excellent bottle of wine is one which has a stability of all its parts, in equilibrium. It ought to have depth and character, bringing out the character of the grapes from which it’s made. It shouldn’t be excessive — simply sufficient to recognise the varietal. For me, class is among the most essential elements of wine. By class, I imply that the wine have to be refined. It ought to by no means be too overpowering or too weak. The hot button is stability.
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