PARIS — French artist and designer Eugène Riconneaus is increasing his attain into new supplies with the launch of ER Ocean Recherche, a analysis and growth hub dedicated to creating next-gen sustainable fibers and textiles sourced from the ocean.
First out of the gate will likely be SeiShell, a marine-based leather-based different and cloth, and SeiYarn, a fiber yarn that may be changed into new supplies for the style business.
“The designer’s job has modified,” Riconneaus mentioned in an interview. “With a paper and a pencil and a coloration palette, really you’ve an enormous accountability within the worth chain. You’re the one one that may actually affect your board of administrators about what’s the affect of your product.”
“We don’t want one other costume. We don’t want one other pair of sneakers. But when I do create one other one, it must be good for the planet,” he mentioned. “My struggle is for the ocean.”
Each supplies are primarily based on Sei, ER Ocean Recherche’s proprietary construction.
SeiShell creates a coated canvas leather-based different, which is plastic free. It may be made in a wide range of thicknesses and makes use of pure pigments from marine sources. The plastic-free materials may be made in massive roll-to-roll format appropriate for purposes from style to automotive.
SeiYarn is a substitute for viscose or rayon cellulose fiber with a number of purposes. It may be utilized in delicate iterations resembling silk-like lace, knitwear or high-performance synthetics.
The supplies are at present within the pilot part. Riconneaus has been working with spinners and producers in France, Italy and Portugal to get to scale, and the fabric is anticipated to have the ability to be made out there by September.
The founder and designer behind the ER Souliers line, Riconneaus first started his foray into new supplies whereas in search of a substitute for petroleum-based paint and pigments for his paintings. He created a vivid blue that he has since utilized in his work.
That analysis curiosity grew throughout the pandemic, when he developed a brand new oyster shell-based sneaker sole. That product launched commercially in 2023.
Since then, he’s continued to broaden his analysis, turning his Paris studio right into a scientific hub.
The ocean continues to be Riconneaus’ inspiration, with the brand new analysis initiative deep diving into new makes use of for marine biomass, significantly invasive seaweed together with Sargassum endemic to the southern Atlantic coast of France, close to his hometown of La Rochelle. He has additionally continued to discover new makes use of for seafood byproducts resembling oyster shells.
Extra analysis is going down in Portugal.
SeiYarn fiber.
ER Ocean Recherche
“We research the marine ecosystem with the target to co-create with the ocean to interchange plastic,” Riconneaus mentioned. “The scope of the challenge is to review what algae ought to be grown, as a result of really they’re excellent to supply polymer, in addition to what’s the invasive species that we are able to valorize to supply clothes.”
Rinconneaus plans to open a bigger scale analysis facility in Paris. He’s additionally at present engaged on a line of attire constituted of the supplies to point out the fabric’s purposes. Each are anticipated to happen in September.
He hopes that, because the challenge expands its scope, ER Ocean Recherche can bridge the hole between designers and lab researchers.
“We have to create extra synergies on this business. We must always assist one another, as a result of the style business wants scalable options, and we have to pace up the analysis and create a brand new business in Europe,” he mentioned. “I’m a really small drop on this huge ecosystem that wants options.”
The Sei merchandise, together with the polymer polymer, fiber and leather-based different, will likely be on show at ChangeNow sustainability conference in Paris, April 24 to 26.
